Altstadtzauber – Klagenfurt (Carinthia)
Within a few years this was Hotel Palindrone’s third appearance at the Historic Center Magic. Masses of people strolling through the city, from stage to stage, from wine stand to beer booth, from Kasnudeln (kind of ravioli filled with cheese and herbs) to Ritschert (a stew made of pearl barley, beans and smoked perk) and Reindling (a fluffy cake with walnuts, raisins and loads of butter). Rather hearty Carinthian specialities – but delicious. And a reflection of the region’s neighborhood to Slovenia and Italy.
Aufsteirern – Graz (Styria)
Aufsteirern is a neologized verb just meaning act the Styrian way or behave Styrian or play Styrian style. Sounds Schwarzeneggeresque, but the word alludes to all aspects of regional every-day-life and culture.
According to the festival’s newsletter the biggest Styrian folk fair is “charming, tangy, traditional, original and modern”. It is, indeed! Highlights of the city festival were (apart from dozens of stands offering the culinary delights of Styria) the fashion show Pracht der Tracht (Grandeur of Traditional Costume) and the concerts within the series VolXmusik on Air featuring Alma and Hotel Palindrone.
It was great fun for us musicians, and the excellent wines were sometimes tangy (Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc and White Burgundy). We’ll be back and hasta la vista, Graz!
“Domweihkirchweihfest zu Ruperti” – Salzburg
Saint Rupert’s Church Consecration Fair, the biggest popular festival in Salzburg. Usually the opening evening would attract thousands of people – but after weeks of sun and heat the weather had changed: Continuous rain and low temperatures. So Hotel Palindrone had to get a rather small audience moving in order to keep them warm. It worked. Whoever showed up in front of the stage next to Salzburg Cathedral (mainly young people wearing lederhosen and dirndl) danced and – after some time – freaked out. Consequently, the Palotians forgot about the cold creeping up the legs and had lots of stage fun.
Immediately after the gig three deep-frozen Palotians drove home. One of them, however, stayed in Salzburg to enjoy Saint Rupert’s Fair and to visit some museums. Good luck for the visitors and the organizers: Next day the weather was fine and crowds were strolling through Salzburg’s historic center enjoying regional delicacies and all kinds of shows.
For example Aperschnalzen: Long whips (up to four meters) are swung skillfully in order to produce rhythmic cracks and bangs which can be heard all over the city. This traditional custom, cultivated mainly in Salzburg and Bavaria, is supposed to exile the winter time and wake up the ancient gods of fertility.
Fichtingers Mechanisch-Pneumatische Concertorgel (Ruth & Sohn 1910) is another attraction of the festival. It is not only an organ, but an impressive orchestra programmed by punchcards: 56 pitches with 200 pipes featuring flute, violin, trumpet, trombone, bass and bombardon. It is the highlight of the Automatic Musical Instruments Museum in Hallwang next to Salzburg – and of course one of the biggest attractions at Saint Rupert’s Fair. The best forget-about-looking-at-your-smart-phone device. Not only for children.
If you want to enjoy a kitsch-free and authentic central European popular fair (without binge-drink orgies and fake-folklore à la the Munich Oktoberfest), than go to Salzburg. That applies to the Aufsteirern in Graz as well.