(Sgraffitto House, ca 1555)

As the Grand Master of French TradFolk had to cancel his gig at the very last moment the organisers of the House of Regions were at a loss: The concert had been sold out for weeks and where should they find a band that could live up to the motto Music from Auvergne?

There weren’t any French musicians to be mustered that quickly, but miraculously the Palotians were available. Scanning their European repertoire and relying on the art of improvisation they succeeded in presenting a feature-length programme. The effort was worth it: Full house, great audience and (after braving the French challenge) content musicians having a glass of fine local wine.

(Picture: Niederösterreichische Nachrichten)

Due to its well-preserved Medieval and Renaissance architecture, Krems on the Danube (seventy kilometres to the west of Vienna) is considered one of the most beautiful Austrian cities. Beyond that, town planners and sociologists might call Krems a cool and smart city.

Thirty years ago nobody would have guessed that a sleepy and ultraconservative provincial town would turn into a vivid and cosmopolitan stronghold of culture and education, where tradition blends well with modern spirit, where winemakers live next door to university teachers. Krems is a fairly small town (about 25.000 inhabitants), but it has much to offer: Danube Festival of Avantgarde Arts, World Music Festival Glatt & Verkehrt, Museumsmeile (Art Hall, Cartoon Museum, Forum Frohner), House of Literature, House of European Regions, Salzstadl, Danube University, etc.

From the banks of the Danube, Krems nestles up against steep vineyards where above-mentioned farmers produce outstanding white wines, most notably Grüner Veltliner and Rheinriesling. Taste them at the taverns (called Heuriger, which are run by the winegrowers themselves) and inns. You could also have a glass at the Salzstadl which is considered a Mecca of traditional folk music, or at the House of European Regions with its beautiful concert hall and remarkable restaurant - where organisers and Hotel Palindrone celebrated the show of the Patrick Bouffard Substitute Band.